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![]() Unlike doing the same thing with a single RAW file, you don’t end up generating noise or artifacts when you go to extremes with the sliders. When you start moving the Shadows and Highlights sliders, you’ll see some fantastic results to adjust your image. All of that dynamic range from your bracketed photos now exists in one image. 5: Make Your Adjustments in Camera RAW/Lightroom As I mentioned in the beginning, you need to be using version 7.2 or higher.īridge users can select the 32-bit TIFF and launch it into Camera RAW by typing ?-R. 4: Load the 32-bit TIFF into Camera RAW/LightroomĬamera RAW and Lightroom use the same processing engine, so use whichever one is best for your workflow. If the settings look good to you, click OK to complete your Save operation. ![]() The only thing I’ve changed on this dialog was to switch the Byte Order from IBM PC to Macintosh. There’s one more dialog after you click Save. Resist the temptation to do anything here, except saving the photo as a TIFF file.Īll you need to do is select a folder, give it a name, and change the Format to TIFF. 3: Save As a TIFFĪfter HDR Pro crunches the brackets into one image, it will spit things back into Photoshop. Just hit the OK button at the bottom of the screen to let HDR Pro do its thing. You can play with the slider, but it doesn’t matter. Other than those two settings, ignore everything else. Once you check it, you can select the original exposure in the filmstrip at the bottom of the screen to determine which image Photoshop will use to eliminate ghosts, but it does a good job on its own. There’s still a lot of power behind that checkbox. If you have brackets with a bunch of long exposures and something is blurry in all of the frames, then Remove Ghosts isn’t going to work magic to make those photos sharp. ![]() Of course, that’s dependent upon your images. Photoshop CS6 does a very good job of removing ghosts. Check the box to Remove Ghosts if you have movement in your original bracketed exposures.There are two things to pay attention to in this screen. ![]() If you’re a Lightroom user, you can select your bracketed photos and launch HDR Pro from the menu by selecting Photo | Edit In | Merge to HDR Pro in Photoshop… Note to Windows Users: When I type ?, you can substitute the Control key. Lightroom users may need to update for Camera RAW 7.2 compatibility. You need Camera RAW 7.2 to make this work. I’m using Photoshop CS6 in these instructions. For those people, the ability to create a 32-bit TIFF with HDR Pro seems to be a great tool for creating a “realistic” HDR photo. That said, there are plenty of folks who dislike HDR as an effect, but like it as a method of approximating the same perception of light that the human eye can achieve. People will either like your photos or they won’t, and those reactions will vary from one person to another. As far as I’m concerned, you can do it any way you want. I see a lot of people on the Internet commenting about “How HDR ought to be done.” This always amuses me somewhat, as I never knew of a Council of Nicea convention to regulate the standards of High Dynamic Range photography. I’ve been using this technique quite a bit since I watched Julianne Kost demonstrate how to create a 32-bit TIFF with HDR Pro at Photoshop World in Las Vegas. ![]()
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